Exploring mouth-watering Puglia food - and the best Puglia food cookbooks
- Christopher White
- Jan 10
- 10 min read
If you’ve ever dreamed of experiencing authentic Italian food in a setting straight out of a postcard, Puglia really should be at the top of your travel list!
Known for its sun-kissed landscapes, historic towns, and stunning coastline, this beautiful southern region of Italy is a paradise for food lovers. Puglia food is renowned for its simplicity, fresh ingredients, and bold flavours, and you'll get an unforgettable experience of Italian cuisine. (Just make sure you bring some Gaviscon with you, and don't wear tight trousers - as you'll have put on some extra weight by the time you fly home.)
Puglia's food is one of the many reasons that I keep going back for holidays there, time after time. In this blog I'll be looking at all things Puglia food-related:
The essence of Puglia food
It goes without saying that Puglia’s culinary identity is deeply rooted in its geography and agricultural heritage.
Puglia is often referred to as the "breadbasket of Italy," as it produces an abundance of wheat, olives, and vegetables, which form the backbone of its dishes. The region’s long coastline also means that there is an abundance of fresh seafood, and that means a diverse and delicious menu for visitors.
What sets Puglia food apart from other cuisines in Europe is its emphasis on quality over complexity. The dishes are usually made with just a handful of ingredients, allowing the natural flavours to shine. Olive oil, fresh herbs, and seasonal produce play starring roles, making meals that are both nourishing and bursting with flavour.
There are a couple of things to remember about Puglia food on your Puglia holidays:
Puglia food is rooted in what's called 'cucina povera'. That means 'poor kitchen', because Pugliese people traditionally didn't have much money (Puglia is predominantly an agricultural area), so had to make nutritious meals from what they had, or could afford. The upside is that the use of simple, locally sourced, fresh ingredients has made Puglia food some of the best around!
Try and avoid menus! It feels counterintuitive, but when you visit a typical ristorante (osteria or trattoria), often you don't need to see the menu - tourists sometimes stick out like sore thumbs with their menu requests.
Instead, simply ask for 'antipasto' for the number of people in your party, and you'll be brought absolutely tons of delicious small dishes, a bit like tapas. Usually they consist of local, traditional dishes and whatever's fresh that day.
This applies especially in smaller towns like Ceglie Messapica and Carovigno for example.
Must-try Puglia food specialities
No visit to Puglia would be complete without sampling its iconic dishes. Here are some of the must-try specialities:
1. Orecchiette pasta
Shaped like little ears (which is a literal translation of their name), orecchiette is Puglia’s signature pasta. Traditionally handmade, this pasta is often served with a simple yet robust sauce of turnip tops (cime di rapa) or a rich tomato-based ragu.
Its chewy texture and ability to absorb sauces make it a favourite among locals and visitors - it's worth grabbing a couple of bags to take home with you from your local supermarket in Puglia.
2. Pane di Altamura
Bread is a cornerstone of Puglia food, and Pane di Altamura is a prime example. This traditional bread, made with durum wheat flour, boasts a thick, crunchy crust and a soft, airy interior. Protected by a DOP (Denomination of Origin Protection) status, it’s best enjoyed fresh from a local bakery or alongside olive oil and cheese.
3. Burrata cheese
If you love cheese, Puglia’s burrata will steal your heart. This creamy delicacy, made from mozzarella and cream, originates from the town of Andria. With its luscious texture and rich flavour, burrata is often served with fresh tomatoes, basil, and a drizzle of olive oil for the perfect appetiser.
4. Focaccia Barese
Hailing from the city of Bari, Focaccia Barese is a flatbread topped with cherry tomatoes, olives, and a generous amount of olive oil. It’s a versatile snack that’s perfect for picnics or as a side dish with your meal. The combination of crispy edges and a soft centre makes it irresistible.
5. Seafood delicacies
With a coastline stretching over 800 kilometres, Puglia is a haven for seafood lovers. Specialities include grilled octopus, mussels stuffed with breadcrumbs, and spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams). Freshness is key, and many dishes are prepared with fish caught the same day.
6. Pasticciotto
For those with a sweet tooth, you absolutely must try Pasticciotto. This small, sweet pastry, filled with custard cream, is a staple of Puglia's bakeries. Best enjoyed warm, it’s a delightful treat that pairs perfectly with an espresso - even for breakfast!
The role of olive oil in Puglia food
Olive oil is more than just an ingredient in Puglia; it’s a way of life. The region is one of the largest producers of olive oil in Italy, with thousands of ancient olive trees dotting the landscape. Pugliese olive oil is known for its fruity and peppery notes, adding depth to everything from salads to pasta dishes.
Many local producers offer olive oil tastings, giving visitors the chance to learn about the different varieties and production processes. Whether drizzled over bruschetta or used as a base for cooking, Puglia's olive oil is a testament to the region’s dedication to quality.
Personally, I really enjoyed the olive oil tour and tasting at Masseria Brancati, near Ostuni. You'll get to see how they made olive oil there over the past 500 years, and finish it off with a blind tasting of their fantastic extra virgin olive oils. You can book via email - find it on their website.
The culture of Puglia food
In Puglia, food goes beyond sustenance; it’s a celebration of life, community, and tradition. Meals are leisurely affairs, enjoyed with family and friends over multiple courses - you might hear the phrase, 'slow food' there, and Puglia is at the movement's heart. Local markets are bustling hubs of activity, and it's worth checking the timetable of when each town has their weekly one. You'll be amazed at all the fresh produce, cheeses, and cured meats.
The concept of "zero kilometre food," or eating locally sourced ingredients, is deeply ingrained in Puglia's culture. This is a commitment to sustainability and freshness, and means that every meal is as authentic as it is delicious.
Exploring Puglia’s foodie destinations
Puglia is home to numerous towns and cities, each with its own unique culinary offerings. One top tip is that you really must make a 'prenotazione' (booking) at restaurants, especially during peak season (even in late March in Ostuni we had to do this).
Here are some top Puglia food destinations for food enthusiasts:
Ceglie Messapica food
Ceglie is really not a touristy destination and most Puglia holiday guides won't mention it. But locally, it's well known for being one of the best places in Puglia for food - and the prices here are lower than its more famous neighbour, Ostuni. Our absolute favourite place to eat is a little restaurant called 'Vini, fritti e cucina' (wine, fried and kitchen).
Martina Franca & Cisternino food
Martina is home to 'capocollo', and if you're a meat-lover, then you must pay a visit here for lunch or dinner. Capocollo di Martina Franca is a traditional pork cold cut made from the neck muscle, delicately spiced and smoked in flavour with a tender, fatty texture. It goes well with stracciatella or burrata cheese as well as sun dried tomatoes and grissini.
In Martina, and Cisternino, you can pick out meats from butchers - and they will then cook them to perfection and serve them to you in their restaurants, on the other side of their building.
Bari food
As the capital of Puglia, Bari is a bustling city with a vibrant food scene. Don’t miss a stroll through Bari Vecchia (the old town), where you can watch locals handcraft orecchiette pasta in the streets. Make sure you try the city’s signature focaccia and freshly grilled seafood.
Lecce food
Known as the "Florence of the South," Lecce is famous for its baroque architecture and delicious cuisine. The city is a great place to sample pasticciotto (although to be fair you can buy these at most cafes in Puglia) and other regional desserts. Pair your meal with a glass of Salice Salentino, a local red wine.
Ostuni food
Often called the "White City" for its whitewashed buildings, Ostuni offers stunning views and fantastic dining options. The town’s restaurants showcase Puglia food at its best, with an emphasis on farm-to-table dishes. You will pay more in Ostuni for food than neighbouring towns like Ceglie Messapica or Carovigno, but it's still not as much as you'd expect in London, for example. Again, make sure you book ahead - ask for local recommendations of where to eat, or pick any on Google with a 4.5 star review or more - that's always been successful for me (and avoid ones where they stand at the door and try and entice you in).
Alberobello food
Famous for its trulli houses, Alberobello is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a foodie’s delight. Look for trattorias serving hearty plates of orecchiette and antipasti platters featuring local cheeses and cured meats.
Tips for enjoying Puglia food
To make the most of your culinary adventure in Puglia, keep these tips in mind:
Embrace seasonal ingredients: Puglia food is heavily influenced by the seasons, so try dishes featuring the freshest produce available.
Visit local markets: it's a joy to visit local markets in Puglia, and each town has a specific day of the week on which they're held. It's a sensory delight just to see, smell and touch (sometimes) the unbelievable fruit and vegetables - and you'll find cost-effective and high quality fresh produce, cheese, olives, and bread for a picnic lunch.
Here's a list of weekly markets from Pugliese towns and what day they're held on:
Mondays:
Andria – Viale Gramsci (nearby Villa Comunale)
Vieste – Lungomare Europa
Lecce – Viale dello Stadio
Cisternino – Via Dante Alighieri and Regina Margherita
Tuesdays:
Monopoli – Piazza Falcone e Borsellino, Via Palmiro Togliatti, Via Benedetto Croce, ViaTrieste, Via Pisonio
Noci – Piazza G. Garibaldi
Wednesdays:
Otranto – Via Calamuri
Gallipoli – Via Vittorio Alfieri
Martina Franca – from Via Giulio Recupero to Piazza D’Angiò
Putignano – C.so Umberto I
Thursdays:
Alberobello – Food Market in Via Barsento + Objects Market in Largo Martellotta
Brindisi – Rione Sant’Elia
Porto Cesareo – Lungomare Ponente
Polignano a Mare – Via V.C. Basile
Fridays:
Locorotondo – Piazza Antonio Mitrano
Conversano – Via Turi nearby campo sportivo “Lorusso”
Saturdays:
Castellana Grotte – Piazza Garibaldi and Largo Porta Grande
Ostuni – Largo Onorevole Galizia
Sundays:
Savelletri – Lungomare Nazario Sauro
Top tip: if you can get to one, shop at a supermarket chain called 'Eurospin'. They're cheap and cheerful, but the quality of food and drink is still really good. Dok supermarkets are more expensive, and Famiglia probably isn't as good as either of the others.
Try street food: from panzerotti (fried dough filled with cheese and tomato) to sgagliozze (fried polenta), Puglia’s street food is not to be missed.
Take a cooking class: learn the art of making orecchiette or focaccia in a hands-on cooking class. Usually, your hotel, villa or accommodation hosts will have some Puglia cookery class recommendations.
Pair food with local wines: Puglia is known for its excellent wines, including Primitivo and Negroamaro. A glass of wine is the perfect complement to any meal in Puglia - don't worry about asking for a wine list, just ask your waiter to recommend something local!
Best Puglia food cookbooks
I'd suggest going to Puglia first to try the food so that you know what it's supposed to look and taste like, and then getting hold of one of these great cookbooks to try making some of the dishes at home.
A Curious Absence of Chickens: A journal of life, food and recipes from Puglia.
Shortlisted for the Fortnum & Mason Food Book Award, by celebrated food writer Sophie Grigson. Buy it on Amazon from £10.97
Adriatico: From Puglia to Venice and Trieste, recipes from Italy's Adriatic coast
A food journey along Italy’s Adriatic coast to discover authentic dishes off the tourist trail, by Paola Bacchia. Buy it on Amazon from £19.22
Moroseta Kitchen: Recipes and Stories from a Modern Puglian Farmhouse
The debut cookbook from Giorgia Eugenia Goggi, resident chef of a design-led restaurant, hotel and cookery school, Moroseta Kitchen is a true expression of modern Italy and what it is like to eat there. Buy it on Amazon from £20.38
Food of the Italian South: Recipes for Classic, Disappearing, and Lost Dishes
85 authentic recipes and 100 stunning photographs that capture the cultural and cooking traditions of the Italian South, from the mountains to the coast, by Katie Parla. Buy it on Amazon from £21.04
Puglia Food Cookbook: Authentic Recipes - The Rich and Diverse Flavors of Apulian Cuisine
A collection of traditional and authentic Apulian recipes handed down through generations. This volume illuminates the diverse array of culinary traditions that make up the traditional Apulian food landscape and provides detailed instructions on how to prepare each recipe. By Sofia Bianchi. Buy it on Amazon from £10.79
From Puglia with Flavor: Family Secrets in 50+1 Puglia Food Recipes
From Gargano, to Itria Valley, to Salento, enjoy the True Flavors of the Apulian Mediterranean Diet. By Aurora Zito. Buy it on Amazon from £12.30
Gino's Italian Adriatic Escape: A taste of Italy from Veneto to Puglia
Join Gino on his culinary journey along the picturesque Adriatic coast. Gino's Italian Adriatic Escape, from everyone's favourite Italian chef, explores the cuisine of the beautiful East coast of Italy. Buy it on Amazon from £9.48
Why go to Puglia? Food, of course!
Puglia food is a reflection of the region’s rich history, agricultural abundance, and passion for simple yet exquisite flavours. From handmade pasta and creamy burrata to fresh seafood and golden olive oil, every bite tells a story of tradition and love for the land.
Whether you’re exploring bustling markets, dining in a seaside trattoria, or enjoying a rustic meal in the countryside, Puglia offers a culinary experience like no other. So pack your appetite, a couple of packs of Gaviscon, and prepare to savour the very best of southern Italy.
Read next - pair your Puglia food with some Puglia wine
You might enjoy finding out all about Puglia's wine - Negroamaro and Primitivo - in this blog post.
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