The Magic of Matera – and why I think it should be on your Puglia holiday itinerary

Christopher White
Feb 5
8 min read

In my last blog, I looked at the undiscovered gems of Puglia, Brindisi and Mesagne. So in a similar vein, I’m writing about another of Puglia’s best kept secrets: Matera. That’s because Matera isn’t actually in Puglia – in fact, it’s in neighbouring Basilicata – but it’s so close by that it absolutely should be on your Puglia holiday plan! (even if you just have one night to spare.)

I’ve been to Matera a couple of times, and usually a trip there gets tacked onto the very end of my visit to Puglia, as an overnight stay before flying back to the UK from Bari Airport. But now I’ve seen the captivating magic of Matera, I really wish I’d stayed for longer. And next time, I definitely will.

The reason? One word could describe it: otherworldly. There is a simplicity and charm about the place that is so unique: the landscape, architecture and history. Matera is so different from anywhere else I’ve visited in Puglia, or the rest of Italy for that matter.

So in a quick departure from everything I love about Puglia, here are seven things I love about Matera!

Looking for the best places to stay in Matera? Check out this list.

Superb frescoes in one of Matera's many beautiful baroque churches

The views & architecture

Driving into Matera isn’t anything unusual. It’s a small city, and en route you’ll find yourself coasting through some lovely rolling hills and farmland, and the odd bit of industrial zoning.

And as you get into the city itself, again it’s fairly typical. There’s not much to write home about, or to distinguish your surroundings from other southern Italian cities.

The magic starts when you get to the edge of the old town, and the sassi. The adjacent streets are very much like the ones you see in Puglia: nice and wide, with restaurants, shops and other businesses there.

But make your way just past these to the edge of the old town, and you’ll see a valley of sand-coloured higgledy-piggledy buildings and baroque churches, descending down into the centre, and then up again at the other side. Beyond, you’ll be able to see some of the oldest formerly habitable caves in Italy.

There’s so much for the eye to take in that it’s worth grabbing a drink in a café or bar overlooking it, just so that you can take it all in. Or, if you get yourself to the far side of the sassi, there are some lovely viewpoints like the one in front of Cattedrale di Maria Santissima della Bruna e Sant'Eustachio (you may also recognise this church and adjacent piazza from No Time To Die).

And as darkness falls, it’s almost even better: full of twinkling lights against a canopy of tiny, glowing squares, and that southern Italian sunset bathing the old city in a gorgeous amber light.

If possible, try and stay somewhere in the Old Town. The downside is that you won’t be able to drive to your accommodation (we parked in a multi-storey car park just outside, which was easy to find and get to).

An important note: you’ll also need fairly decent mobility when staying in the old town, as it’s extremely hilly and you’ll be working up a sweat just by exploring, or going up the hill to the nearest supermarket. Unfortunately there is very little accessibility if you’re a wheelchair or mobility scooter user.

The traditional Pane di Matera — The traditional *Pane di Matera*

The food

I’ve always thought Puglia’s food is some of the best in Italy – but dare I say it, Matera’s isn’t far behind.

Like Puglia, Matera's cuisine reflects its deep-rooted traditions and connection to the land. Known for its rustic and hearty cuisine, Matera’s dishes are based on simple, high-quality ingredients.

One of its most famous foods is Pane di Matera, a traditional sourdough bread with a thick crust and soft interior, made from locally grown durum wheat. It has been a staple for centuries and is often paired with cheeses, cured meats, or olive oil.

Pasta dishes, such as orecchiette with turnip greens (often seen as a typical Pugliese dish) or tomato sauce, are common, while legumes like lentils and chickpeas feature in warming stews. Lamb and pork are also widely used, often slow-cooked with herbs.

Sweets include strazzate, almond biscuits flavoured with cinnamon.

And again, just like Puglia, eating out somewhere nice is very affordable. We had a wonderful meal at Ristorante Soul Kitchen (traditional, with a modern twist), and booking ahead – for dinner at least – is highly recommended in any season.

Matera's history: sassi and art

Very much like most of Italy’s south, Matera has a history rooted in fairly abject poverty - which has made it what it is today.

Matera is probably most famous for its ancient cave dwellings, known as the Sassi di Matera. These stone houses, carved into limestone cliffs, date back over 9,000 years, making Matera one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited settlements.

During the Middle Ages, Matera thrived as a centre of trade and religious life, with monasteries and churches built into the caves. But by the 20th century, poverty and poor living conditions led to the city's decline (like much of the Italian rural south). In the 1950s, the Italian government forced residents to relocate, leaving the Sassi abandoned for decades.

Revitalisation efforts in the late 20th century restored Matera’s beauty, transforming it into a cultural hotspot. In 1993, UNESCO recognised the Sassi as a World Heritage Site, and in 2019, Matera was named the European Capital of Culture.

Matera is also a town with a rich artistic heritage dating back thousands of years, with influences from Byzantine, Romanesque, and Baroque styles shaping its artistic landscape.

The Sassi di Matera features rock-hewn churches adorned with Byzantine frescoes from the 8th to 13th centuries. These paintings, often depicting religious scenes, reflect the city's deep spiritual history.

During the Renaissance and Baroque periods, Matera saw the construction of grand churches and palaces, such as the Matera Cathedral, which boasts intricate frescoes and gilded decorations.

The 20th century brought renewed artistic interest, with filmmakers and contemporary artists drawn to Matera’s striking scenery. Today, the city remains a cultural hub, hosting exhibitions and events that celebrate its artistic past while embracing modern creativity.

Getting lost in Matera’s winding streets

I mentioned that Matera is hilly, and I can only say that again – this city will give your legs (and heart) a work out! (a side note: as you’ll be working up a sweat, make sure you wear suitable comfy walking footwear, and bring with you water, something to mop your brow, and perhaps one of those little handheld fans).

Matera’s Old Town is full of cute, winding lanes, peppered with stone steps smoothed by the passage of time. You’ll most likely need a map of Matera to navigate it – and one thing I’d like to do next time is book a guided tour. I lost count of the times that I thought our apartment was around the next corner, only to find that it simply wasn’t.

Its popular appeal: James Bond

The producers of the last 007 film certainly did their homework when they were scouting for atmospheric locations – No Time To Die’s opening 20 minutes were filmed between Matera and Gravina di Puglia. There was a bit of CGI involved, naturally, but you can visit the spots where certain scenes were filmed.

And there are plenty of James Bond guided tours available to book if you don’t want the headache of navigating around all those winding streets!

I couldn’t help but feel slightly starstruck by thinking I was standing on the same street that Daniel Craig had stood…sad, I know.

Despite being in Basilicata, Matera is under one hour's drive from Bari airport

Ease of access to Bari airport

In a surprising geographical twist, Bari is actually less than an hour’s drive from Bari Airport, which places it closer than Brindisi is from Bari. That’s why it’s a natural stop on a Puglia holiday itinerary, either at the start, or at the end of your holiday. The drive from Matera to Bari is really easy, and there are plenty of fuel stations as you come into Bari where you can fill up your car before dropping it off at your Bari Airport hire care office.

If you’re driving to Matera from somewhere like Ostuni, it’ll take you the best part of two hours to get there, in a slightly tedious route either via Taranto, or Martina Franca and Motola.

Masseria Torre Spagnola - great value stay just outside of Matera

The quality of Matera’s accommodation

Both times I’ve visited Matera, I’ve stayed in lovely holiday accommodation, at very reasonable prices (although both visits took place outside the peak season, in September).

The first was in an old masseria, Masseria Torre Spagnola (pictured, above) – it was a lovely stay with modern facilities in a typical, ancient building (and their breakfast was fantastic).

The next time, we stayed in the Old Town itself, in a fabulous, modern apartment (Le Tre Vie) that, whilst not altogether easy to find, was simply stunning. That turned out to be my favourite of the two, because the apartment’s roof terrace gave us a place to enjoy the sunset and glow up of the Old Town, with a lovely glass of local wine.

It’s possible to visit Matera on any budget, and below I’ve listed some places which might appeal to you – whether you’re looking for a really special, luxury stay, or just somewhere which will do the job as a base to explore.

Where to stay in Matera

Hey Reader! For full transparency, if you make a booking through one of these links, I will earn a very small amount of referral money, which just helps cover the costs of running this website - and will mean I can keep writing articles like this one! It doesn't make your accommodation any more expensive. Thank you.

Skip to accommodation in Matera for:

Solo travellers
Couples
Hotels
The Old Town
Outside Matera
Luxury seekers
Family vacations
Those on a budget

For solo travellers

For couples

Hotels

In the old town

Many of the hotels and apartments above and below on this list are located in the old town - check on their listings whether they are within 500 yards of the centre.

Outside the old town

You can get more for your money by staying outside of Matera - you'll not get the great views of the sassi, and you'll need a car - but your wallet will thank you.